Modelmaker Kayte Sabicer joins us this week as we talk about our love for Cinefex magazine and discuss first workbenches and workspaces. We also talk about Jack White’s recent visit to the cave, and hear a story about one of Adam’s first trips to the Bay Area’s Urban Ore.
One Day Builds
Adam embarks on one of his most ambitious builds yet: fulfil…
Show And Tell
Adam recently completed a build of the royal St. Edwards cro…
Making
Viewers often ask to see Adam working in real-time, so this …
One Day Builds
Adam and Norm assemble a beautifully machined replica prop k…
One Day Builds
One of the ways Adam has been getting through lockdown has b…
Making
Adam unboxes and performs a quick test of this novel new hel…
Making
When Adam visited Weta Workshop early last year, he stopped …
One Day Builds
Adam tackles a shop shelf build that he's been putting off f…
Show And Tell
Time for a model kit build! This steampunk-inspired mechanic…
One Day Builds
Adam reveals his surprise Christmas present for his wife--a …
It was great having Kayte on and talk her work spaces.
Adam, Cinefex now comes out every 2 month or 6 times a year, it used to be quarterly.
I picked up the Cinefex Blade Runner edition for $40.
Is that toothpaste cap comment a deep Feynman reference?
My Mom bought a breadmaker, but she kept it on the kitchen counter on the opposite side of the wall from the headboard of their bed. Made for an awkward stop off to raid the fridge until I saw the breadmaker moving a little. I was really hungry.
Congrats on the Cinefex Kayte! Nice to see you on the podcast again. Thanks for the shout out.
Adam if you have any Cinefex duplicates you have for sale. I still need some more to add to my collection.
re: ebay/craiglist searches
Craigslist will create an RSS feed of your searches, so if you have an RSS reader you check, you can just set up a feed of the search results and see any if they pop up. Handy for those ‘keep an eye out for any…’ kind of things.
A few guidelines I have found for making workbenches. As someone with occasional back issues I have put some thought into working as comfortably as possible and this is what I currently have come up with. For the height of the work area it will vary depending on the type of work you are doing. also the work area is not necessarily the height of the surface it is the height that you are going to be working at. if you plan on working on larger items the work area is going to be higher from the surface than if you are doing smaller flatter things. For operations that are more labor intensive in which you might want to use more of your upper body to bear down on it like drilling, sanding, or planing you want the work area lower. For a work area height for these measure from standing on the floor to the lower third of your forearm and that will give you the range of your work area. Next for a more general purpose work bench you want to put the work area height to about the center third of the forearm. You will have a little less leverage for putting your weight into it but you will be bending over less while doing other work.Finally for stuff like small parts assembly and model making keep the work area in the upper third of the forearm this will help keep you from having to strain you neck as much when you want to work on finer detailed things.
Then for the depth of a work area. Place a pencil in your palm and make a fist around it. then set your arm on the work surface aligning your elbow to the front edge and make a mark with the pencil. that distance will be the comfortable working depth. if you plan on trying to keep a clean bench make it just that deep. if you want to store things on the bench also like tool boxes, parts or something add that depth to the working depth but this seems to have a habit of leading to a more cluttered work area if you want a bench away from the wall that you can access all sides just double the working depth. If you do need a deeper work bench for larger items its okay just remember that anything beyond that measurement is going to be a reach and maybe figure on enough room to rotate the part around as you work on it so that the part you are working on stays in the comfortable area.
Finally building the bench. I like to keep to the K.I.S.S. principle on this and consider it an expendable item nothing fancy or elaborate. For most stuff 2×4 legs and frame with a plywood top. They are simple and easy to throw together. So if you built one for a certain type of work(model making) but you find you need to do more of something else(like building furniture) a quick trip to the lumber store and about an hour or two of work and you have a better suited bench to fit the work. also at some point in time you are probably going to accidentally drill into it, burn it with a soldering iron, get paint on it or something else happen and on a bench built to be expendable it will be a lot less of a deal. Lastly on that note you can use the top of the bench to help with projects. Like laying out lines directly on the surface and when you get too many lines and it gets confusing a quick sanding or new piece of plywood and you are good to go again.also screwing or mounting homemade fixtures directly to the top to help hold or align an item can be a huge help sometimes.
sorry this comment got kind of long but hope it helps anyone trying to build a bench in the future.
Hey Tested,
I was so inspired by Adam’s mobile tool racks that I made a spin version for my home studio and sell them online (SWMBO suggested that I was out of my f’n mind if I didn’t sell them to other makers :-). I sent a freebie to Testing a year or two ago, so you have one somewhere in your in-box.
In less space than my traditional machinist toolchest needed I can now keep even more stuff I need for clean-room fabrication:
http://www.atelierjet.com/news/projects/rotating-tool-organizer/