Tested Builds: ErgoDox Mechanical Keyboards, Part 2
Will and Norm continue with their ErgoDox mechanical keyboard assemblies, and build momentum with the soldering! The question now is how many keys will work on the first try. If you haven’t watched yesterday’s introductory episode, you can find that here. And follow along with us for the rest of this build by signing up for a Tested Premium Membership here!
15 thoughts on “Tested Builds: ErgoDox Mechanical Keyboards, Part 2”
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I watched a Hong Kong flick called “Lost in Thailand” on Netflix last night. The bad guy made me think of Norm the whole time. Sorry Norm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpWGqC2iubU
I can’t get the player to stop or fast forward on my kindle fire
Aaargh – this is really making me want to build one of these, but maybe something a little less complex (like with the case and whatnot) – if anyone has a recommendation of a mechanical keyboard kit that maybe doesn’t require laser-cut case parts, let me know.
Also, Will keeps cracking me up with throwaway Big Lebowski references.
Massdrop has a 60% keyboard that will be easier to build. The diodes are already soldered to the PCB. All you need to do is solder the switches in. http://dro.ps/b/Y9mf12k
http://dro.ps/b/Y9mf12k – Link didn’t work and it wouldn’t let me edit it. Sorry for the double post.
The comments about Totoro reminded me of a picture I took earlier this year:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ygktech/16385272723/in/dateposted-public/
Dear Tested people:
First of all I LOVE the Tested content. I really geek out on having Norm and Will (and guests!) do stuff in the background, while I do my own thing in the foreground.
That being said, you really, REALLY need to lose the Flash player. I have uninstalled Flash on my entire computer and it’s really eliminated lots of troubles and memory issues I had. Unfortunately, it’s also eliminated *some* content.
For some places that require Flash, I can use my browser’s Dev tools to masquerade as an iPad and force the content into either HTML5 or h.264. On your site, this also happens, BUT the quality drops dramatically. It looks like it’s playing at 360-480p. Even my iPad can play higher-quality content.
Please consider either moving to an HTML5 player for your content (with a pop-out option, would be even cooler) or a link to download the content so I can play it on my own computer, which you offered at one point, but stopped (I’m sort of assuming for piracy reasons).
This would mean the world to me.
Thanks so much!
Paste solder and a toaster oven work good too… Set the temp to about 350, put the paste solder down, then the parts and throw it in the toaster oven for about 60 seconds or so.
or you can get something like a Tenma tweezer SMT iron. Its basically 2 soldering tips on a heated tweezer thing so it does both sides at the same time.
If you want some paste, let me know. The company I run does SMT boards and we got a bunch of it. I can get you some to play with.
So I’m looking forward to the Premium Build where Norm and Adam will make an Animatronic Totoro costume. Sweet!!!!
I second the no flash comment! At a minimum it would be nice to bring back the download links. They are playable directly in chrome no problem.
why can i not watch the premium videos anymore. there is just nothing there. suxs
I probably would have gone with all though hole on this project. It would be more durable in the long run.
hey,
First post!
When i was training as a Weapons Engineer during my time in the Royal Navy there was a trick we used to use for keeping tiny components ready to solder.
We used to tape a strip of masking tape sticky side up along the work surface and place all the components on it, that way they would stay in place until we needed to use them. really handy if your working on a ship which is in a storm!
Its probably something that everyone knows but i thought i would give my 2 cents!
Re: Microsoft’s incompetence…
Windows Tablet PC edition was released November 2002 and the Apple iPad was released April 2010.
Even better method is a solder mask and paste solder – you squeegee the paste over the mask with a thin plastic card (similar to screen printing), remove the mask, then place the components, that way you get exactly the right amount of paste applied, then you can either lob the boards in a toaster-oven set to an appropriate temperature, use the hotplate method, or use a hot-air rework tool to selectively melt it.