This Old FX Shop: Painting Metal Robots!

Frank and Norm each take on painting an original garage kit by Punished Props! Frank guides us through giving these resin robots different finishes to make them look like different types of metal.

Comments (24)

24 thoughts on “This Old FX Shop: Painting Metal Robots!

  1. Entertaining video, thanks!

    Would love to see Adam & Frank do something similar, as they both know their stuff but have different approaches. So would be very interesting to compare how they handle painting/making the same model.

  2. I would love to create a model kit just for them, anything they would like. Maybe we could create a modelling contest for the tested community and the winner kit gets painted by Adam, Norm and Frank?

  3. Great job you guys! You did Sir Botsalot proud. =)

    For those curious, I only made a limited run of the kits for Designer Con. I do want to cast some more, but we’re currently short on time to do so.

  4. Here’s a project I did with a similar technique to Norms:

    I started with a gloss black coat, airbrushed Pale Burnt metal Alclad for a gold color, and then airbrushed Alclad Exhaust Manifold over that for the dark filter. once I was satisfied with the base finish, I hand painted some detailing and did an acrylic patina wash to wrap it all up.

    The Alclad needs the gloss black base because it is translucent. Before I put on the filter coat, I had this just as shiny as Frank’s chrome finish.

  5. Short on time? You just need to bend, fold, and mutilate the space time continuum. It’s easy, just watch out for the bounce back.

  6. Guys, thank you for these new videos, but I hope you haven’t completely ditched the Week of Build format when it comes to painting kits. These videos are very informative, but they focus heavily on everything except implementation itself, and spending hours listening to Frank and Norm (and Will) chat about random stuff while watching what their hands were actually doing and comparing the results is what both got me into airbrushing and saved me several hours worth of initial trial and error. I already knew what to do to a certain extent when I finally unboxed my airbrush kit and started painting. Starting anything new cold is usually very frustrating for me, as I have some motor difficulties.

    Well, not just airbrushing. Watching all you guys is what got me to return to the whole model building thing at the age of 40. I tried it as a kid, everything came out horrible, there was very little information available anywhere, and I just turned back to Lego and computers. But airbrushing is by far what I enjoy the most.

    Ooooooh that’s nice!

    Painting on a gloss black base works with pretty much all metallics if you layer them carefully, especially if you’re going for a rough, cast metal look. I have never worked with Alclads, because they’re not easily accessible to me, but from what I understand, they have a high content of very fine flakes, whereas typical metallic paints have a certain amount of regular pigment to provide a base color and contain larger, very distinguishable flakes. Even in model paints such as Tamiya, you can almost count the individual flakes. Black is used, of course, to increase contrast by providing a darker reflection on areas where light does not directly hit the viewer. Without it, those areas would just look like a dull, lighter surface. It needs to be glossy, because as again expressed very clearly by Frank in this video, whatever’s underneath, will show on top. A thin layer on a flat base will result in a flat, less reflective surface. I say this because it’s one of the reasons I like working with the airbrush – I can choose a rough primer to make a surface appear flat even with glossy paints on top.

    Would running a Kickstarter and outsourcing the work be out of the question? I watched you guys come up with the design on Twitch and it came out so nice. I say “you guys” because I remember voting differently on each design choice ;).

    A quality base kit that has some room for modification would be so cool, so it wouldn’t just be about different finishes.

  7. i second frank’s advice on firm vs soft sanding implements. it’s such a small thing, but makes all the difference when it comes to control. firm sanding supports allow you to accurately manipulate form: the contact point is where abrasiveness happens, and alignment dictates what direction of plane you’re working towards. softer sanding tools on the other hand apply their abrasiveness focussed on high spots, but with a smooth falloff outwards from there.

    if you use sanding blocks, having one that’s just a squared-off & planed piece of suitably dense hardwood, and one with this dense felt-ish surface is all you need. (that’s what i keep in my toolbox)

  8. That’s exactly what I thought. Would be fun to all do the same piece and compare results. Just for fun

    I love using wax gilt for metallic surfaces. If you don’t manipulate them too often they last a long time

  9.   I was going to say the same thing. So cool to see two different approaches and such different results.

  10. I’m looking into outsourcing production of kits like this to another company. If something comes of it, I’ll be sure to spread the word. =)

  11. Ummm lacquer painting without a mask pretty bad idea! Not a very good health and safety advert guys!

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